With thunderstorms threatening, no way to get our packs transported and one of the team having back problems we decided it was common sense to catch a train to Santarem. I have to admit it was quite nice and peaceful having time to sit on the train and write my journal. From the station in Santarem we had to walk up the hill to the town. Santarem is named for Santa Ira, a nun whose martyred body was washed up on the banks of the Targus in the seventh century. The Moors ruled the area for four centuries until Santarem was conquered by King Alfonso Henriques in 1147. It is the Gothic capital of Portugal with ancient churches on nearly evey corner. The walk up the hill took us to Portos do Sol gardens where we had lunch and enjoyed the views over the countryside. You can see why it was such a stronghold for the Romans, Moors and later the Portuguese. Despite not walking to Santarem (and
yes, the good old Catholic guilt crept in), we still covered 18-20 kms.
As it was Holy Thursday we all went to Mass at the Santarem Cathedral. A beautiful Mass, magificent choir and soloist. Every side altar had a plethora of candles, canopies were used for the bishop and Blessed Sacrament. It reminded me of the processions we went to when I was in primary school. Unlike the Mass we went to in Lisbon, there were women involved in the liturgy, but only one woman having her feet washed. On that note, one of the things we have all noticed is the predominace of men in cafes, including two places where only men were eating out. We have seen very few children out and about.
Photos: Constantine chilling out at the station - he was very pleased not to have to walk today. Climbing the hill to Santarem. Entering the town through the Santiago Gate. Checking out a Knight Templar- Constaninte reckons it is one of his ancestors, he´s such a skite. King Alfonso. Ceiling of the Santarem Cathedral, Santarem Cathedral. Yet another cheese sandwich. Eels in the fish market. Ready for the road.
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